Sunday, August 25, 2013

Indonesia from the train

After a week of wondering what are people seeing in Java, I finally get to see that too. Indonesian trains are so slow, one would have thought they are being pulled by a pair of Komodo dragons, but they have an advantage of breathtaking, hilly landscapes, shaped with juicy green rice paddies and other plantations behind the window. Above all that- volcanos, under - little straw and clay huts with red tiled roofs, yes tiled, not tin! 
It immediately changed my mood, that was rather grim after the whole morning spent in the buses on dusty roads. Roads! Always jammed, with no sidewalks, not even even side of the road to walk on, there is no walking in Indonesia, unless you want to risk your life. Airspace seems so much safer so we set off and done some paragliding. From above, where there is no noise and all the trash is not visible, everything looks so much better. Tea plantations with some sparse trees covering the hillsides, rice paddies in the valleys. Never thought people would be so happy to find me crushing (actually landing nicely but smashing some plants on the way) into their rice field. "Hello Mister! Come my home! Welcome!" Eh, falling from the sky... :) 
But apart from that Puncak fell a victim of its own beauty. Hotels, guesthouses, restaurants and ugly shacks quickly built up along the road to accommodate and facilitate the masses of Javanese and Arabic tourists are of bad style and obstruct the views, masses of waste left along the street or simply thrown in the stream pollute and stink. Prices are through the roof and quality disputable. Nights are still loud with traffic or morons who find it funny to shout out loud and ride motorbikes up and down the street with a great speed. 
Speed... Street... Few days ago, 500m from our hotel a bus with bad breaks smashed into the house on the bend of the road and took it with it into the stream several meters below. 20 dead, some more injured. Road jammed with spectators taking pics with phones etc, ambulances rushing up and down the road between the site and little hospital. 
Down the hill drama, above fun goes on. People keep flying, tandem business flourishes (6000 flights a year for one pilot!), there is joy, children playing. The Universe is a balanced place after all.

Two weeks ago

Singapore. Arrived last night around 11pm, fearing everything will be closed and we will have to spend a night on a bench. Couldn't be more wrong. If you want to wake up in a city that never sleeps, this will be the place. In little India the malls and restaurants were still open and full of people at 1am. And it's only the middle of the week... 
The country is an example of clockwork organization. Border crossing reminds an airport, bags and people are scanned to ensure there is no flow of illegal substances like e.g. chewing gums and that absolutely nothing can escape customs. Two Dutch guys we were traveling with watched their cheap, thai cigarettes being destroyed in front of their eyes. Not one smoke was allowed. We were surprisingly allowed with half emptied bottle of wine, the last one for a long time, as we were to realize soon. 
Singapore is a dream after months spent in Asia. A dream for eyes and nerves, not for the wallet. With progress prices jump up so one knows one pays the price for this little bit of comfort on the way. Metro goes often and on time, streets are paved and sidewalks are wide, parks are beautifully designed and architecture... That topic would require a separate entry. They've got some nice and interesting buildings! 
And oh! Cars stop to let pedestrians go! I missed it so much. And older or disabled citizens  can press their ID card to the street lights box for prolonged green when crossing. Little things! 
The sight of elegantly dressed people in fancy tops, skirts and dresses made me miss my summer wardrobe and feel like a scavenger ;) 
Beautiful campus, equipped with newest technology etc, would be a great place to study. 
Yet, apart for all the super sides of Singapore I missed the messy, arty part of culture. It's got big opera titles on the boards but little alternative concerts are hard to find, illegitimate street art - nonexistent. A few street musicians can be luckily spotted around the place. There's nothing cheap in Singapore but great Indian food. Thanks for that!

Tuesday, August 13, 2013

Under the surface

The fifth day on Tioman. It seems that my sinuses are finally getting better and I can start the diving course. I just got too lazy after last few days of doing nothing that I could keep on like this for ever. Lay in the hammock and read or listen to the music. Holiday at last...

3 days later: I'm certified open water diver ;) underwater is cool, The reef is beautiful, fishes funny, but still there is nothing like air! Off we go towards Indonesia! 

Malaysia

Kuala Lumpur. it's 4.00 in the morning, the fridge that brought us here from Thailand has just dropped us somewhere in the center. It's pitch dark but streets are not empty, it's Ramadan, so many Muslim men are having early breakfast in the nearby, tightly packed, halal food place before the sun will rise. We get a disgusting coffee at McDonald's and think what to do next. Decision - night trek to Petronas Towers. Circling around we get there through 'little India' and its omnipresent sari shops, some backyards where dogs don't even bark but they look from dark corners of a dark city - silent observers. Rats, picking last, delicious pieces of yesterday's kebab's before the washmen will come and clear the pavement with the soap solution. Rich and fancy financial district and there, there! Petronases! Bench! Splendor and two backpackers setting up a camp in front of it, washing faces in the fountain. 
Other rats, the office ones, passing by from time to time, it's hard to tell if they are going to or out of the office... Lights are turning on, off, it's a spectacle for those who have time to watch. It's getting lighter, sun is rising under the towers - photo session - people start to rush, traffic picks up. It's getting crowded. All around the city people in suits, miniskirts, saris, long coats and head scarves, too short trousers, hats and shirts, elegant makeups, emphasizing their origin, religion, social status. All of them with badges hung around their necks, already before they leave home, showing the streets their belonging to the corporates, determining the skyscrapers they are heading to, saying they are not here to fuck spiders. Big city at its core. Lets move on. We're taking first bus to Melaka.